How to help keep natural curls looking healthy and defined
Definition. Full body. Bounce. Help give life back to natural curls with these tips and products.
For those blessed with a luxurious head of natural curls, it can sometimes feel overwhelming to care for and maintain them.
Frizz, shrinkage and tangles are common frustrations. And thick, curly hair is more prone to breakage and dryness than other hair types, according to the American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD). So what’s a curly headed individual to do?
Fortunately, with the right routine — and a good supply of tools and products — everyone can help keep their curls healthy looking, bouncy and voluminous.
In this article:
How to take care of curly hair
When it comes to taking care of curly hair, knowing the types of curls is key. But identifying a curl type can be tricky: “Everyone’s hair has multiple types of curls and textures,” says salon owner and trichologist (hair loss practitioner) Yene Damtew, who also serves as the hairstylist for the Obama family.
Generally, curls will fall under one of the following categories: type 2 (soft waves, wavy and deep waves), type 3 (soft curls, curly and ultra curly) and type 4 (coiled, zigzag and tightly coiled).
The types of curls someone has will depend on their hair follicles. For example, oval follicles tend to produce wavy hair while twisted oval follicles tend to produce curly hair.
While knowing their curl type can help someone select the products they need, Damtew explains that most curls face two main issues: frizz and definition. And both problems can be tackled with… drumroll, please… moisture.
Identifying different types of curls
Type 2 wavy
This curl type includes:
2A soft waves
2B wavy
2C deep waves
Type 3 curly
This curl type includes:
3A soft curls
3B curly
3C ultra curly
Type 4 coiled
This curl type includes:
4A coiled
4B zigzag
4C tightly coiled
Keeping hair moisturized
Nothing is more important for curls than proper hydration. Damtew’s biggest tip for curly haired people: “Moisture, moisture, moisture!” Curls can get dry easily, so steps that promote more moisture are “imperative in order to have beautiful, bouncy curls.”
But hydrating hair goes beyond just using moisturizing products. It also means utilizing methods that don’t strip away hair’s natural moisture.
There are two tactics that can help keep curls happier:
Shampooing less
How often should people wash curly hair? While other hair types might respond well to being washed frequently, cleansing curls too much can leave them dry, frizzy and difficult to manage. People can discover their shampooing sweet spot by trial and error, but according to the AAD, thick, curly hair doesn’t need to be washed daily — or even weekly. Washing a minimum of every two to three weeks is optimal for scalp and hair health.
Conditioning deeply and thoroughly
Those with straight and wavy hair should usually aim to condition the mid-lengths and ends. But those with curly hair should give the full length of their strands some love. Condition all the way from the roots to the ends, notes the AAD.
While fine hair can be weighed down with heavy conditioners, most curls (fine or thick strands) will enjoy a deeply hydrating conditioner and perhaps even a reparative hair mask. After taking a shower, aim to apply moisture-rich products, such as leave-in conditioners or oils.
Finding the best products for curly hair
In addition to being dry, curly hair can be incredibly fragile and difficult to detangle. Here are some of the best types of products to help tame curly hair.
- Shampoo. When it’s time to wash those strands, try using a hydrating shampoo that is specifically formulated for curly hair. Additionally, if a curly haired person likes to style with creams, gels, oils or pomades, using a clarifying shampoo before the moisturizing shampoo can help, according to the AAD. Focus on the scalp, massaging the shampoo into every inch.
- Deep conditioner. Look for a curl-friendly conditioning product, like a deep conditioner or a hair mask. It is even better if these products contain argan oil, glycerin or a fatty alcohol like cetyl or stearyl alcohol, according to the AAD.
- Detangler. Carefully detangling hair is key, explains hair stylist Evie Johnson, who is on the board of the International Association of Trichologists. Simply ripping knots out with a hairbrush can lead to more damage. “Always use a detangling product, starting from the ends of the hair and working up,” says Johnson.
- Curl cream. A curl cream coats hair with an extra layer of moisture and helps give strands definition and hold. Each hair type will dictate the thickness and hydration intensity of the cream needed.
How to comb curly hair
Using a wide-tooth comb is particularly helpful for wavy and curly hair. It allows people to gently rake through their strands without tugging on them, which can cause damage and flatten natural curls.
Some wide-tooth combs are also made with delicate, rounder teeth so as not to snag or pull curly hair. For thick, curly hair, a “detangling brush works best,” says Johnson. “It takes a lot of unnecessary tension away.” Consider a brush that is dedicated to thick and/or curly hair.
When to use a heat protectant
Blow-drying is a great way to bring out the bounce and volume of curls. That said, don’t forget to use a heat protectant. “I always recommend using a heat protectant on any hair that heat is being applied to,” says Johnson. Without one, considerable damage can be done to hair, especially curls, which are already more fragile and prone to dryness.
How to diffuse curly hair
Speaking of blow-drying curls, “a blow-dryer diffuser works wonders on curly hair,” says Johnson. “It really sets the hair and helps calm down frizz if done properly.”
Diffusers work by evenly distributing hot air over a wider section of hair, preventing a disruption in a curl’s natural pattern. To use one, prep hair with a heat protectant. Then attach the diffuser to a hair dryer. Hover over sections of hair for 30 seconds at a time, moving between each section of the hair until the entire head of curls is completely dry.
Using a diffuser attachment can take longer, but it’s great if someone has the time, adds Damtew. Many hair dryers come with diffusers, so be sure to explore all options before making a purchase.
This content is for informational purposes only and is not medical advice. Consult your health care provider before taking any vitamins or supplements and prior to beginning or changing any health care practices.
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FOR CURLY HAIR IS MORE PRONE TO BREAKAGE AND DRYNESS SOURCE: Schleehauf B. 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists. American Academy of Dermatology Association. Updated June 29, 2022.
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FOR MULTIPLE TYPES OF CURLS AND TEXTURES SOURCE: Yene Damtew, interview, May 2023.
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FOR HAIR FOLLICLES SOURCE: Westgate GE, Botchkareva NV, Tobin DJ. The biology of hair diversity. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2013;35(4):329-336.
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FOR IDENTIFYING DIFFERENT TYPES OF CURLS SOURCE: Moody SN, van Dammen L, Wang W, et al. Impact of hair type, hair sample weight, external hair exposures, and race on cumulative hair cortisol. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 2022;142:105805.
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FOR SHAMPOOING LESS SOURCE: Schleehauf B. 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists. American Academy of Dermatology Association. Updated June 29, 2022.
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FOR CONDITIONING SOURCE: Schleehauf B. Tips for healthy hair. American Academy of Dermatology Association. Updated August 12, 2024.
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FOR LEAVE-IN CONDITIONERS OR OILS SOURCE: Schleehauf B. 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists. American Academy of Dermatology Association. Updated June 29, 2022.
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FOR HYDRATING SHAMPOO SOURCE: Schleehauf B. 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists. American Academy of Dermatology Association. Updated June 29, 2022.
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FOR CLARIFYING SHAMPOO SOURCE: Schleehauf B. 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists. American Academy of Dermatology Association. Updated June 29, 2022.
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FOR ARGAN OIL, GLYCERIN OR A FATTY ALCOHOL SOURCE: Schleehauf B. 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists. American Academy of Dermatology Association. Updated June 29, 2022.
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FOR DETANGLING PRODUCT SOURCE: Evie Johnson, interview, May 2023.
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FOR HOW TO COMB CURLY HAIR SOURCE: Evie Johnson, interview, May 2023.
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FOR USE A HEAT PROTECTANT SOURCE: Evie Johnson, interview, May 2023.
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FOR HOW TO DIFFUSE CURLY HAIR SOURCE: Evie Johnson, interview, May 2023.